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18th-Century Stomachers


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This clumsy-sounding word (to the modern ear) was two (very important) things to an 18th-century woman. It was a triangular piece of fabric which might be embroidered, bejeweled or beribboned. It was separate from the main portion of the gown and could be changed out as whim or time of day demanded (a more sedate version for day, and a more elaborate version for a ball, for example), It was an integral part of gown construction in the 18th century (see painting, next page).


A stomacher also referred to a specific type of jewelry that was pinned to the fabric stomacher. It was a must-have accessory, that recherche bit of 18th-century elegance, that affirmed a lady's wealth and position. The jewel "stomachers" were often part of a larger parure that would typically include earrings, a necklace, a brooch, and/or bracelets. Sometimes even a haircomb. And, for those entitled to wear one, a tiara.

This clumsy-sounding word (to the modern ear) was two (very important) things to an 18th-century woman. It was a triangular piece of fabric which might be embroidered, bejeweled or beribboned. It was separate from the main portion of the gown and could be changed out as whim or time of day demanded (a more sedate version for day, and a more elaborate version for a ball, for example), It was an integral part of gown construction in the 18th century.

A stomacher also referred to a specific type of jewelry that was pinned to the fabric stomacher. It was a must-have accessory, that recherche bit of 18th-century elegance, that affirmed a lady's wealth and position. The jewel "stomachers" were often part of a larger parure that would typically include earrings, a necklace, a brooch, and/or bracelets. Sometimes even a haircomb. And, for those entitled to wear one, a tiara.

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A stomacher (the jewel) was affixed to the center of a lady's dress, at or just below the bust. Stomachers might be the approximate size of a pendant or brooch, but more grand and expensive stomachers encompassed the bulk of the torso. They were composed of any material that was expensive and rare: pearls, diamonds, cabochon jewels, platinum, gold, and even fine lace (often spun with threads of precious metal). The famous Devonshire parure comprised seven pieces, one of which is a stomacher that incorporates intaglios from the Duke of Devonshire's collection. It was made for the coronation of Tsar Alexander in 1856.


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A portrait of a lady wearing a ribbon stomacher
by Francis Coates, 1768 (Tate Museum)



As fashions changed and the stomacher (the dress part) became obsolete, many of the jewelled forms of stomachers were reworked into other ornaments. The twirly, frothy diamond example on this page will only set you back $2,750 (www.georgianjewelry.com). Sorry, the emerald stomacher is sold. To see a wide variety of stomachers, including embroidered, lace and jewelled examples, check out the online collection at the Victoria & Albert Museum (http://www.vandaimages.com).


Where can I find this?

http://www.georgianjewelry.com
http://www.vandaimages.com



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