1913 Ornate, Fawn-Colored Silk Velvet Opera Cocoon Coat w/ Battenburg Lace
Origin: Likely French
Materials: silk velvet, silk, linen lace, gold lame, faux pearls, silver sequins
Bust: 41"
Waist: 45"
Hips: 47"
Waist: 45"
Hips: 47"
Length: 51"
Shoulder-to-Shoulder: 20 (loose)"
Sleeve Length: 24 (loose)"
Shoulder-to-Shoulder: 20 (loose)"
Sleeve Length: 24 (loose)"
Description: Well this is some stunning piece. By its cocoon styling and approximate date, when it was made it was capturing the exotic, new flair of the latest Poiret mode. It is a symphony of soft, warm hues: fawn, brindle, dusky gold and ancestral silver.
The velvet is luscious silk velvet, very rich. The mastery of sewing techniques is seen in as disparate, luxurious materials come together in this one, splendid piece: gold lame lace; lavish, three-tier runching; and ecru Battenburg lace. This coat most certainly came from a fancy botique or maker, and very possibly imported from France.
The wonderful trim includes circular appliques composed of small, faux seed pearls and silvery bugle beads forming a rosette around an extremely large, faux black or dark pearl. This pearl is made to resemble the organically shaped pearls used extensively in baroque jewelry, rather than the perfect spheres more commonly seen in faux pearls. From each rosette applique hangs silvery-jet beading and lame-covered, netted dangles, which terminate in gold lame braided into tiny, round knotwork.
The coat has a medium-weight cotton-type batting middle lining with an interior lining of pale, fawn-colored silk. There is a small ruched, self-fabric pocket in the interior of the coat.
The overall impression of this coat is stunning and rich, and it is a (wonderfully!) large size. It could accomodate just about anyone (that generous, cocoon design!) from a 4 to 10 and perhaps a 12. These coats were meant to be drapey and unformed, so loose fit is the general word.
Condition: Excellent
The velvet, Battenburg lace and lamé lace are in near-mint condition.
Very fresh and wonderful. The silk lining has a lot of splits and shattering throughout, about 70% intact overall, except for the shoulders where it is completely gone. The lining is also very tattered along the bottom hem. The coat is wearable as it is, but if the lining is not replaced, then the small bit of hanging lining at the hem should be pinned in order not to snag it on something. The coat is wearable, but the lining is in such fragile condition that it will break and tear with every wearing. This isn't so much of an issue, as it should be removed or replaced.
The lame lace needs to be retacked at the very bottom of the right side, right at the hem (about three-and-a-half inches worth). There are also breaks to the lame lace here. Most of the rosettes have lost some of their pearls, beads or dangles, but overall retain enough of their original state to maintain the overall impression of luxury. What is missing could be restored.